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I just bought a BMW 328is and I plan on preparing it for STX over this summer. I've been doing some research but I need some help from people with well setup-competitive cars.

I read the article on Grassroots Motorsports over Bryce Merideth's 328is but I need more detailed information.

-For SHOCKS, he's using double adjustable Konis with TC Kline coil overs. (500lbs in front 550lbs in the back). I used to run 800-500 in my Miata which is a lot lighter, so these rates seem to be on the soft side, dont they? What are you guys using?

-I was looking at Bimmerworld's single adjustable Koni's/Ground Control setup, it sells for about $1900 with the Ground Control front camber plates and rear shock mounts and strut tower reinforcement. I think this would be a nice setup that wont break my bank. But, what rates should I go with?

-Now, SWAY BARS. I have no idea on which ones to use, maybe the Eibach sway bars with adjustable spherical links?
 

-BUSHINGS.  Powerflex  polyurethane bushings seem nice, they sell some with offset orifice on the front to get more camber.

-REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM. I will need an adjustable rear lower control arm to adjust camber, any opinions on which one is good?

-WHEELS. I did research and could only found 2 17x8 wheels that fit my car: O.Z. Ultraleggera (17.5lbs) and Enkei NT03-M (18lbs), to me these wheels are too heavy. I cant really afford SSRs and Kosei only sells a 17x8.5. Any ideas?

-TIRES. Dunlop Z1 or RE01R in 245-40/17 I'm leaning towards the Z1 star.

-BRAKES. Here is another thing I have no idea on how to setup. Would it be a good idea to use the stock brake pads in the front and more aggressive pads in the rear to make the car less front brake biased? Ideas...ideas. I think I'll get the goodridge stainless brake lines too.

-ENGINE. UUC underdrive pulleys, Conforti chip, homemade cold air intake. Has anyone use the Conforti chip? are there better ones out there?.

-EXHAUST. I have a UUC catback. The midsection has 2 cats on each pipe. I need to read the rules better, but can I make my own midsection with high flow stainless core catalytic converters? Do I need 2 cats on each pipe or would I be legal using just 1 cat on each pipe?

-HEADER. I need recommendations on which one is good.

-LIMITED SLIP DIFF. Where can I get one with 2.93:1 final drive? Can someone custom make one?

-ALIGNMENT. Meredith is using -3.5 degrees camber, 1/16 toe out; 5.5 caster front; -2.2 degrees camber, 3/16 toe in rear. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

Thanks a lot.
 

Ooof, lots of questions. I'm not the best person to answer some of this, but here is my input anyway:

I was running 500/650 on my 325 with no rear swaybar. It worked well for me, but you could probable go a little higher with better shocks than I had. Don't forget the motion ratios are different for a 3er than a miata, so spring rates aren't really comparable. I ran the GC track/school kit, only with Vorshlag camber plates. I also ran GC's massive front swaybar. I think the shocks were a weak point and doubles would have made a difference. I couldn't deal with the price gap though, so I stuck with the Koni singles. I went with the no-rear-bar approach out of necessity (ripped the mounting ears apart), but I ended up liking it alot. I was planning on going back to the stock rear bar once I got the subframe fixed. I originally had the GC rear bar as well, but I never found a setup that I liked with that much bar in the back; picked up the inside rear too much. Could have been my driving though. If you want to go with the GC Koni singles, let me know and I'll sell you mine cheap. I've been eyeing the AST's that Vorshlag is peddling anyway!

I never really messed with poly bushings. Mostly I just used M3 versions of the stock parts. I did use the RTAB washers, which helped. It looks like I should have at least replaced things like the subframe and engine mount bushings. I'm still undecided about poly/delrin for RTAB's or FCAB's. I did use the offset M3 FCAB's, but I don't know that the offset really made a big difference. I think the centered, solid bushings would have been fine as well since there are other subtle geometry changes that are made when you mix offset bushings with control arms meant for centered ones. Oh, and you don't need an adjustable rear lower control arm. You should be able to get plenty of adjustment out of the stock arms, and they are light and cheap to replace anyway.

You mentioned some decent choices for wheels, and they are actually some of the lighter ones. SSR's and mebbe BBS RGR's could be lighter, but that is about it. Rota and Team Dynamics have some cheaper 17x8's in the correct offset and bolt pattern, but they will weigh more. I can't comment on tires, but there are plenty of other threads around here on those.

I didn't mess much with the allowed power mods. I ended up with a Turner Motorsport chip (Conforti does theirs I believe) and it works fine. Mostly, the advantage came from the raised rev limit. You will be in a trickier position with a 328. The tuning options for the OBD-II ECU's are very different than the 325's with their OBD-I system which is apparently simpler to work with. Anyway, unless you get true custom tuning, any off-the-shelf tune will probably be fine. You do have more potential with the 2.8 motor but custom tuning isn't cheap. I never did much of anything with the exhaust or intake, partially for money reasons and partially for usefulness reasons. The home-made intake is probably OK, and you can put together a single-pipe exhaust with a high-flow cat (yes, you can replace the two stock cats with one high-flow if it is rated for use that way) to drop a good amount of weight. Headers are probably going to be a zero-sum game if you are using an OTS tune. If you really are going to custom build the exhaust and get the car dyno tuned, some long-tube headers might make a difference, but if you aren't going all the way just keep the stock pieces.

The stock brakes are fine, but you do need different pads. I personally used Carbotech Bobcat's, but I know of folks using Hawk, EBC, Cobalt Friction, and a few other pads with good results as well. Most folks seem to like the same pad compound on both axles though. Not a lot of mix-n-match going on with brake pads. I tried braided steel brake lines, but I never noticed a difference in feel or anything. I think stock replacements would have worked just as well but the braided lines are still in good shape so I haven't replaced them just to find out.

The diff is going to be the biggest pain. There are no stock 2.93 LSD's. You are going to have to buy an LSD core and get it put into your diff case with your 2.93 ring gear. For whatever reason, diff work on BMW's isn't cheap. Diffsonline and Metrix Motorsport seem to be popular for diff work these days.

Well that is about all I can offer. Best of luck to ya,

- Bret 

Welcome to the STX Bimmer crowd! I think you will enjoy it.

-For SHOCKS, he's using double adjustable Konis with TC Kline coil overs. (500lbs in front 550lbs in the back). I used to run 800-500 in my Miata which is a lot lighter, so these rates seem to be on the soft side, dont they? What are you guys using?

TC Kline valved D/A's are working well for me, though the ASX's that Terry over at Vorshlag has look pretty promising! Spring rates look pretty close, it's a matter of personal preference once you are in the ballpark. Some people like a little compliance, some like it stiff as a board. Bryce's rates are on the compliant side, but on many surfaces that is what works best. As said before, motion rates are much different on the E36 chassis than on a Miata.

-I was looking at Bimmerworld's single adjustable Koni's/Ground Control setup, it sells for about $1900 with the Ground Control front camber plates and rear shock mounts and strut tower reinforcement. I think this would be a nice setup that wont break my bank. But, what rates should I go with?

SERIOUSLY consider Vorshlag's camber plates instead, particularly if this car is street driven. I have had enough of GC's rattling and popping camber plates to last me a lifetime. New, straight out of the box, every set I have had has sounded like this. I have installed several sets of Vorshlag (previously known as Motorforce) plates and not one problem yet, quiet as can be expected. The rest of GC's stuff is pretty good quality, but compare Vorshlag's coilover pieces while you're at it, may be a better solution.

-Now, SWAY BARS. I have no idea on which ones to use, maybe the Eibach sway bars with adjustable spherical links?

 I like the H&R 28mm front bar, or the GC 32mm hollow.
 

-BUSHINGS.  Powerflex  polyurethane bushings seem nice, they sell some with offset orifice on the front to get more camber.

 Haven't tried any new bushings yet, but it is way past time for me!

-REAR LOWER CONTROL ARM. I will need an adjustable rear lower control arm to adjust camber, any opinions on which one is good?

Camber and toe is adjustable with the stock ones. The tubular are a good option, but not a necessity to get the adjustability.

-WHEELS. I did research and could only found 2 17x8 wheels that fit my car: O.Z. Ultraleggera (17.5lbs) and Enkei NT03-M (18lbs), to me these wheels are too heavy. I cant really afford SSRs and Kosei only sells a 17x8.5. Any ideas?

SSR's are about 16.5 IIRC, and the D-Force 17x8's are supposed to be available soon, at around 16lb, and very competitively priced. I wouldn't obsess over a few ounces, though, or even a lb or so, just don't use boat anchors!

-TIRES. Dunlop Z1 or RE01R in 245-40/17 I'm leaning towards the Z1 star.

Z1 Star Spec all the way!

-ENGINE. UUC underdrive pulleys, Conforti chip, homemade cold air intake. Has anyone use the Conforti chip? are there better ones out there?.

I am using the Conforti, so far so good.

-EXHAUST. I have a UUC catback. The midsection has 2 cats on each pipe. I need to read the rules better, but can I make my own midsection with high flow stainless core catalytic converters? Do I need 2 cats on each pipe or would I be legal using just 1 cat on each pipe?

2 into 1 with 1 cat should work fine. There is not a lot of power to be gained, so most of the reason for exhaust is simply to drop some weight.

-HEADER. I need recommendations on which one is good.

Fastory manifolds are good, not too terribly heavy, and preserve some torque. Aftermarker header on our cars, considering the limited amount of other engine prep we are allowed, is a waste of money, IMO.

-LIMITED SLIP DIFF. Where can I get one with 2.93:1 final drive? Can someone custom make one?

Try stuffing a factory LSD in there with your 2.93 before spending the big bucks, if your budget is tight.

-ALIGNMENT. Meredith is using -3.5 degrees camber, 1/16 toe out; 5.5 caster front; -2.2 degrees camber, 3/16 toe in rear. ANY SUGGESTIONS?

Great starting point!

Thanks a lot.

You are welcome! Keep us all posted on here, maybe some shared knowlege will help us "lowly" Bimmer pilots dominate the WRX's this year! Good luck.

-Brian Flanagan

1997 328is
 

I have the Vorshlag/AST 4100 Single Adjustables with camber plates and have been pleased thus far--they're great for daily driving, autocross and track days.

I would advise against the Powerflex Lower Control Arm Bushings (LCABs), just get the centered (96-99) M3 LCABs.

There are no factory 2.93 differentials with LSD, so you either have to get a custom diff or if you are comfortable with it, you can swap the limited slip unit from a M3 diff into the stock diff, as long as you don't change the ratio you are good to go.

You can probably find a set of BBS RC's, which are no longer produced but still on the used market, but they are lightweight and can be found for 600-800.  

Another 328 STX-er checking in. :) 

 
At our recent Divisional (SFR) I felt like I was getting a bit too much roll in the front with my "winter" spring set-up: 450/550, stock bars.  I would definitely recommend going a bit stiffer in the front than that.  My normal "summer" set-up is 600/700 and I'll be adding the GC hollow front bar on top of that. 

Rest of my set-up is standard stuff: GC Konis, Vorshlag camber/caster, M3 bushings, UUC exhaust (installing next week), cheap Momo seats (ditto), 2.93 40% LSD (local shop built it), OZ Ultraleggeras.  Stock brakes with PBR Ultimate ceramic pads.  Currently running on Ecsta SPTs (cheap), stepping up to the Dunlops once these wear out.  Haven't gotten an intake or chip yet, but I'm planningon getting the ECIS (CA smog legal) and the Conforti software. 

The total package works great, even on the SPTs, and is really fun to drive.

My car at the Divisional

ps. don't hit a cone with your foglight, it breaks the bracket.
 

Pfft, try hitting a christmas tree sometime, it has about the same results. I don't know what idiot decided to dump his tree in the middle of the road but it did a very nice job of motivating me to go buy some foglight block off plates.

Oh, and I think 600/700 is probably a good place to be on spring rates. 500/650 always felt a little too soft in the front, so going up to 600 would probably be just about right and you would need to up the rears to help keep the balance the same. I have the GC giganto-bar up front as well, but I honestly think it is a little bit too much. I'd probably go smaller if I was buying again, but I couldn't say just how small.

- Bret 

I have a few general questions regarding the BMW E36 in STX

 Which year seem to be the best for STX the older 325's or the newer 328's?

Can you find any withouth a sunroof?

 Which is is better the 4dr or 2dr?

 Thanks guys.

Thank you guys for all your input.

Now, how stiff is a 328 with 600-700 or 500-550? this is my daily driver   the Miata was fine with 800-500 but it's a totally different car.

Thanks 

focus_wrc:

I have a few general questions regarding the BMW E36 in STX

 Which year seem to be the best for STX the older 325's or the newer 328's?

Can you find any withouth a sunroof?

 Which is is better the 4dr or 2dr?

 Thanks guys.

The 325 and 328 are about the same… The 328 has a bit more torque but 325 weighs a little less… Not 100% sure about the sunroof… I assume they made some without… BTW my springs are 500/400… TC Kline Koni DA’s and not at all harsh on the street…

Cheers…

You better check the STX rule book b/f you start changing stuff  -  from what I remember I can't even swap my gear shift knob....

 The stock lsd on my 94 is decent - only 75k on it though...  I wouldn't change gearing as second is perfect for fast courses and w/ the chip you won't hit the rev limiter.  I get just above 60 in second.  not sure if yours has a different ratio though.

I have a 94 IS w/ tck da, vorshlag plates definitely, all bracing you can get on the car as you will need it to be as stiff as possible - front big bar, and then drop weight with the battery, seats, 2/1 collector and drop the double cats and add cat back - I am not sure what you can do to be compliant under the rules with the obdII sensors as you can't change them and no cel's are allowed.  search for terry fair's post's in bimmerforums as there are great threads re the exhaust issue for stx and other issues.

I do well on grippy airport type autox  but let it drizzle and I get WRXed to death or a bunch of slow turn arounds, those cars can pull much better from the hole.

 The DUNLOPS stars are very good!!!!!!

"14.10.G. Any mechanical shift linkage may be used."

I think you're ok with an alternate shift knob.

It would certainly be an interesting protest if someone claimed that you could put in a short-shift kit but had to use the stock knob.

About exhaust, I already have a UUC motorwerks catback. It has 2 2" pipes going to a straight through resonator.

I will probably make my own mid-section but I need some advice. Would you guys go from the double pipes from the header to 1 pipe midsection (2 1/2" or 3"?) with a metalcore cat? (which will go to double pipe catback again) or should I use two 2" pipes for the midsection with 1 metalcore cat each?. Also, if I keep the double pipe, would I get more torque by using an "X" pipe somewhere? I heard you can gain some torque by doing this. 

For suspension I narrowed it down to the Vorshlag coilovers/camber for $2300 single adjustable or the Koni /GCTrack Day kit for $1900. I'm leaning towards the Konis because its $400 less and the quality seems excellent (at least on what I had on my previous car). Why are the Vorshlag camber plates better? they are made out of steel instead of billet alloy like the GCs....just design?

Thanks 

any input on exhaust systems?

(read my previous post) 

You can go with a single high flow cat but you'll need to have two bungs for both of the rear o2 sensors.

Ideal exhaust would involve a custom midpipe with a single cat with a downturn just past the driver's seat (or is it rear axle for ST_ ?).