SCCAForums.com

jwbrockman:

Actually, a lot of e36 aftermarket rear shock mounts work very similarly to Andy's method, but with an important difference - they use a metal sleeve over the threads of the shock rod, so that the plate can't damage the threads of the shock. I think that type of mounting could work fine on a yellow, with a short 12mm i.d. sleeve for protection of the threads. In my case, it was easier to find the lugnut parts than a 12mm sleeve.

Interesting thought.  1st-gen CRX (and similar Civic) worked that way, too.   Hmmm...

--Andy 

Cut through the control arm so that you can get something on that nut to hold it while you remove it. Then, go on e-bay and buy yourself another control arm for $25.00

Edit: BTW, remember to put anti-seize on the bolts when you reinstall.

Small update: Huntsville

--Andy

GChambers:

Cut through the control arm so that you can get something on that nut to hold it while you remove it. Then, go on e-bay and buy yourself another control arm for $25.00

 

Edit: BTW, remember to put anti-seize on the bolts when you reinstall.

Or get new ones from Mazda Comp.  

Andy Hollis:

Small update: Huntsville

--Andy

Awesome result in Huntsville Andy.  Enjoy the R&R!!!

DC Pro Solo update.

--Andy 

Hey Andy, are you running on 7" or 7.5" SSRs? Thanks.

Auto-X Fil:

"Barely touched the rev limiter"? Heading up the hill on the left course it sounded just like my car, popping all the way. My datalogs show I was on it for two full seconds, although going uphill like that I swore I was just hitting it before I braked at the top. What's your redline?

Sounds like your need to do some ECU work. With the stock ECU we've been on the rev-limit on a few Roger Johnson Nationals-style courses even with tall tires.  

Peru National Tour update.

--Andy

PS: Brian, my wheels are 7.5" wide. 

Thanks Andy, Bridgestone told me that they wouldn't support/suggest it over 7.0" wide rim, and I had mentioned that it is an autoX car that would not be on the street ever, etc. I am glad to know it is being put on a 7.5" rim and working (quickly), contrary to what UHP from Bridgestone told me.

Congrats at Peru......  Hopefully the CRX's will continue development and push their way to the top STS2 spot consistantly   But maybe I'm a bit Honduh-biased, My car just needs a good driver, most the go-fast goodies are there, minus some one-of-a-kind parts we are still developing.

A win at Milwaukee NT

Now its time for something a little different...

--Andy 

Update:

The latest issue of GRM (December 2007) has Part 3 of the print articles, with all of the dyno testing we did at the beginning of the project.  It also contains some dyno stuff we did last winter.  The former includes testing of a number of popular intakes/headers and other common mods.

Since GRM acquired many of these parts, this info is NOT contained in the online blog so that it may serve as a lead for the print mag itself.  So go buy a copy!

Feel free to discuss here, though. 

--Andy

Andy,

 I got mine yesterday.  Is there any way to post some of the dyno charts.  The size they are in print makes them pretty much usless to see any of the points you were making. 

 Thanks,

Eric

Crosser1:

Andy,

 I got mine yesterday.  Is there any way to post some of the dyno charts.  The size they are in print makes them pretty much usless to see any of the points you were making. 

 Thanks,

Eric

Yeah, I was a bit disappointed with that.  I was under the impression that they were going to appear in the larger size that you see in the chart #9 on the second sidebar.  I'll see what I can do...

--Andy

Thanks. 

Just to clear up one point as well, What intake did you decide to use?  The SPI or RB?  I read the article late last night and was did not quite catch your choice, other than cooling it down between runs due to heat soak. 

 BTW, the bike strapped to the dyno was classic.  I have got to take a ride down to ART's soon. 

 Thanks again,

Eric

Back from the dead...

Car has been out of hibernation with a win at the Fort Worth Tour.

More importantly, we've got some Toyo vs Bridgestone tire testing up on the blog.

This is from March. 

Enjoy! 

--Andy

The Toyos look even stronger when you consider that you've been driving on the B-stones for a while and are probably quite used to them... and the car was set up for them.  I know I had to adjust my CRX setup when I switched to the Toyos.  I am surprised by the Toyo tire pressures though.  Did you take any pyrometer measurements on the tread or did you just go with what got you around the skid pad fastest?

Thanks,  Matt

glagola1:

The Toyos look even stronger when you consider that you've been driving on the B-stones for a while and are probably quite used to them... and the car was set up for them.  I know I had to adjust my CRX setup when I switched to the Toyos.  I am surprised by the Toyo tire pressures though.  Did you take any pyrometer measurements on the tread or did you just go with what got you around the skid pad fastest?

Thanks,  Matt

No pyro, just the clock.  I've been burned by the pyrometer too much in the past.

And I did make a few adjustments to the car before the test.  More rear bar.  Did not hurt the Bridgestone performance, but did help the Toyo.  Learned this from an informal test session at the Driveway just before Dixie.  Car would not even turn on the Toyo.

No doubt that my "feel" preference is the Bridgestone.  Some because of experience on the tire, as you say, but also because I personally prefer a more responsive tire.  What's ironic is that just a year ago we were all saying that the Bridgestone was sloppy compared to the old Falken RT215.  I can't even imagine back-to-back between the RT215 and the R1R. 

The Toyo just likes to run at big slip angles and you have to get used to that.  Very much like an old-school bias ply.  Maybe if I had power steering things would be different...

--Andy