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Well, I'm going to try this forced induction thing a try, I just bought this puppy last night, of course it bumps me out of the mess and into SM2.

:D

Hi guys. I have a vortech supercharger kit for sale that fits 92-96 vettes with the lt1 or lt4 engine. It is a bolt on kit and you are able to retain your ac and all of the accessories.  It uses the S trim compressor which is CARB legal.  Price is $2250 and has been dropped from $2600.

The kit is highly upgraded. If you’re serious about getting a kit that works out the gate, this is it. You will not have to worry about belt slip or bleeding off boost from leaky bypass valves with this kit. The upgrades are:

- vortech mini race bypass valve (approx $250)
- 7 rib upgrade from 6 ribs
- Bracket modified for dual idler pullies which give more belt wrap ($750)
- Brand new tensioners (cost $110 from ford)
- Larger diameter inlet tubing (4” compared to 3”)
- Homemade anit rotation valve(better directs the air flow to the compressor)
- Discharge tube is drilled for dual alcohol injection nozzles
- Huge k&n air filter

All of these things are things that you’d want to do if you want to get good power out of the vortech kit. The stock kit is prone to belt slip and the stock kit doesn’t allow easy belt changes. The stock kit requires about 3-4 hours to change the blower belt and with this kit, it can be done in 15 minutes. I was getting belt slip  at 6 psi with the stock setup and the new setup included here allowed for 10 psi of boost reliably and without slip. I have the kit instructions and all the little bolts bagged up.

To complete the kit, you’ll need a 255lph in tank fuel pump ($75), spark plugs a heat range colder and gapped tighter, bigger fuel injectors, and a tune to handle the spark needs and fuel needs.  If you need injectors, I can offer to sell the injectors on my car which are 38’s. I’m pulling them off to install 60’s.

If you’re looking for a night and day performance difference, then this is it.  This kit will reliably work on pump gas with alcohol injection and make excellent power. Even on junky 91 octance California gas, I never had a problem with detonation. 

With all this work done to the kit, you’re probably asking why I’m selling it.  Well, I’m selling it because I just upgraded to a vortech ysi compressor with custom bracketry and discharge tubing.  Let me know if you have any questions, technical or otherwise. I can be reached at russriggs@yahoo.com .  The kit is in CA and if you're local, you're more then welcome to come by and check everything out. Here's some pics of everything:

everything installed:

here's the bracket with dual idler pullies. the tensioner pictured has been replaced since this photo was taken

more parts of the kit

here's everything else. Not pictured is the polished discharge tube that connects the blower to the throttle body. Also not shown is the polished bypass valve.

Brian, I haven't checked the ruleset in a bit regarding FI and engine displacement, but I don't believe FI and 5.7s are legal for SM2.  This may throw you into XP.

d 

Welcome!

There are no displacement limitations in SM anymore. Your calculation would be 1600 + (200 * (5.7 + 1.4)) = 3020. BUT, "no car will be required to weigh more than 2900 lbs." So there you go. Sounds like a fun car!

rnoll98:

Welcome!

There are no displacement limitations in SM anymore. Your calculation would be 1600 + (200 * (5.7 + 1.4)) = 3020. BUT, "no car will be required to weigh more than 2900 lbs." So there you go. Sounds like a fun car!

i stand corrected!  good to hear that the displacement limit was removed.

d 

Cool, though it looks like I'll have to put my car on a diet LOL

BTW Someone on the Corvette forum is helping run some #'s to pic a camshaft
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?p=1562823855
Keep in mind this is crank hp, and I need to factor in the hp needed to spin the blower.

Ok, the base setup for these is the stock lt1 block.
Ported LT1 heads from above (stock valves).
1.75 headers with 26 inch pipes.
58mm throttle.
7 inch crank and 3 inch super C pulley.
First is the stock cam
Second is CC LT1 276HR-14, 220/230, .510/.510, 114
Third is CC LT1 290HR-12, 230/244, .510/.540, 112
In the real world the Comp Cam's probably have a little advance ground in but I put them in straight up for now.

Not to dramatic a difference between these two.

BTW the boost @ 6000 was 9psi = Stk cam  8.2 = 276cam  7.7 = 290cam
Your going to see the boost drop as the engine breaths better...

I'll check back in, if you want any changes & can post detailed info on your final combination ... if you want to see it.

I'm liking those #'s :)

Looks like I'll have to weigh in the smaller boost of the 290.

Which will be good at keeping the engine alive, and hp is what I want not boost, vs the more easily tuned 276 cam.

Yes, it's just a model for now.

 BTW I found out that's with the hp drain from the blower.

 I guess I'll have to looking into better clutches! LOL

More updates,..

Long tube headers 1 3/4 in are on order, I got in on an CorvetteForum GP.

The friend doing the port work (cuisinart) found a machinist out here that does so much volume, he can get me a complete balanced rotating assembly rods, pistons and crank for ANY stroke at a great price.

Looks like it will be a blown 383!

More toys, $300 for a B&B 3in exhaust!

Brian Cuningham flew out to hang out for a few days to cehck out some parts weve picked up for his build and hang out here to get out of the Denver cold. My place looks like an auto parts store. Heads, intake, blower, motor parts, and now a B&B exhaust a (new) member andrew_huh brought over.

cuisinart

More engine plots, as a 350 and as a 383

Sure feels like it :lol:

I can't believe how things are coming together for this build so quick! :willy:

Latest graph

Looks like 383 is definitely the way to go :thumbs:

First chance I've had to look back at this, been to busy:crazy:
I worked on the model a bit more, dropped the head flow down a little because it looked high compared to most posted numbers.
Also pushed on the Vortech model after running some chevy and ford combinations I found posted.
Anyway here is a 350 vs. 383, everthing the same as the last model except a little less head flow and a different VS-1 model, using 290 cam (4.03 bore, 3.75 st, 6 inch rod on the 383)...

 SuperL98

I had Ron port the stock heads I bought.
That way we have a record of everything done.

They had to clean the heads before flowing them,
so 84k miles worth of crud wouldn't clog up the flow bench.

Brian Cunninghams heads freshly soda blasted and flowed...
Very similar to the #s pulled off the web, never hurts to double check it.

Ron

Heads and intake will be ported and the flowed (again) seaprately and together. Just for reference. Odd intake port shape.....
Ive seen #s printed out here but no charts yet, just curious.

Thanks to Ron for getting that done, man they cleaned up nice :thumbs:

This will both end of lot of debates, and start many more.

peaked at .400 lift!

Makes you wonder about putting big rockers on stock heads. :crazy:

Thanks!

 Ron started porting my heads yesterday.
Here's an intake port.
Keep in mind that these are a work in progress, and he hasn't finished the port yet.

He's even porting the oil return holes for me :thumbs:

checkout how the stock guides are NOT centered in the casting :toetap:
Still trying to figure out what that step on the backside is. :skep:

Notice Ron managed not to nick the stock seats when he did all that work!

Also, I've got another friend who's getting me these at a real good price.

I'm going to get his dual rate coil over springs as well

What are you going to run for a rear tire size in order to even dream of putting down some of the power? 

We're running a 335 wide tire in the back in BSP w/ a LT4 and traction is hard to come by

Thats with a few HUNDRED horsepower less than you as well...   It will deffinitly be a screamer on the track though, hold on!

I'm going through the whole suspension.

Penke Coilovers with custom springs listed above.

I'll also be running all heim links in the rear.
I may actually lengthen the dogbones so the attach to the back of the upright instead of the front.

Here's the kit I'm buying:
http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=3937&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

astock165:
I have these same kits on my 93 coupe and have been running it this season and so far have been very happy with the results.  The rear end seems to stay planted much better than when I had the stock aluminum links and poly bushings.  I ran it @ an autocross last weekend and was very impressed as I could not get the rear end to step out at all.

I developed this kit with Gary from Hardbar and although there are other kits on the market we both feel this kit is superior in many ways.  The ends of the links are slotted like a collet and use Omega style clamps to lock the rod ends in place and eliminates the jam nuts, which can come loose.  The bodies are knurled for easy grip and adjustment, even when on the car.

I have one of each on hand now and can build up to 9 more in the next couple of weeks if the demand is there.  The kits are as follows:

Red anodized aluminum turnbuckle links with steel bodied, Teflon lined spherical rod ends.  All components are American made.:flag:

Nuts & bolts are all Grade 8 hardware.

All necessary spacers and washers are provided.

Trailing Arm Kit: $350 + S&H

Camber Rod Kit: $200 + S&H

Buy both kits at once: $495 [SIZE="5"](Save 10%) + S&H[/SIZE]

All I need is a small deposit of 10% (preferably by PayPal) so I can order the few parts I don’t have and will confirm with you when they have arrived.  I will ship them out with tracking information once the balance has been paid.

If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate ask.  You can PM me through the forum or use my email below.

The dogbones are going to make the biggest difference.
That's where all the binding is.

You get the camber rods to get rid of that stupid factory cam setup!

I may wind up liking the performance change so much that I wind up keeping them the stock length.

installed pics:

Here are some pics of the kit installed on my car (93 coupe).  Between the centerline of the shock and the edge of the omega clamp measures about 1 3/4" on my car.  I would bet that you could buy a bit more by biasing the top of the shock inboard a little when installing it on the eyeball plate that attaches to the frame.  Hope this helps.

I'm also going to redo the upper a-arms.

I just got back from Tom's (astock165 ) place, picked up my rear suspension links with spherical rod ends

Nice :thumbs:

All top quality stuff. It's nice when an engineer works on this stuff.

Here's a review posted on CorvetteGuru':

http://www.corvette-guru.com/modules/newbb/viewtopic.php?topic_id=4507&viewmode=flat&order=ASC&type=&mode=0&start=0

CentralCoaster wrote:
Finally got everyone off my back and got some time to install these.

 

Car feels great.  It really freed up the rear suspension.  The car actually dropped a bit due to less binding, yet I did not adjust the ride height at all.  I scraped my exhaust for the first time after backing out of my steep driveway.  (Car is lowered.)  I can articulate the rear knuckle easily by hand when the car is on jackstands.

Going over speed bumps, I hear the front end squeak and bounch with the poly bushings.  Rear end is quiet as a mouse and transmits less to the chassis.

Took it in the twisties, but improvements there are going to be impossible to quantify without lap times.

I don't know when my next track day is, but I'll have to repeat a track that I've been to recently and compare.  May not be until a few months from now when it cools off.

.....

Everyone (without these installed) seems to think they'll ride very rough.

If anything, I found the opposite to be true. Now my car has never rode very smooth, but with the new Bilsteins and these installed, it's as good as ever. I had poly bushings on prior to this, and petrified stock rubber bushings on before that.

I'm not convinced how spherical rod ends can hurt ride quality, when you can easily articulate the suspension by hand, that means the suspension can react quickly to an uneven road surface. The stock pieces in their bound up state are very stiff and hard to move, and so they would transfer more energy directly to the frame, not allowing the suspension to soak it up.

I'll get pics this evening.
Posted on: 7/18 14:06 

BrianCunningham wrote:
Yes, but with the stock C4's it's even worse since it's not a ball joint, but just a rubber bushed cylindrical hole, that really should just be used for 2d movements.

Here's a recent pic of my stock suspension, you can see the old stock rubber bushings binding up so much that they are being forced out.

Next time you have your wheels off, or it's up on a lift, check it out.

Poly bushings would actually make it worse since they take away compliance in the the off axis direction.