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The subject pretty much says it all.  As most of you are aware I am still debating what car I'm going to pick up to pull AutoX duty for me (appreciate all the input by the way).  Longevity and durability are amongst my concerns --- which brings me to a a relative unknown for me:  How much does autox'ing your car say 1-3 times a month for the season beat on your car?  Running R comps I can imagine a lot greater forces on the suspension components etc....  Can a few of you guys chime in with a run down on what you spent on your car's maintenance during last season? 

Thanks in advance,

Chuck Mamich

On my s2000 in 2006 we ran a complete season 3 tours, 4 pros, 20+ local events, 2 drivers.  Only wear and tear was a a set of sway bar bushings and clamps for the front bar(19.95).  We broke 1 wheel stud($5 part).  One diff mount bushing leaked(warranty), and the rest was just routine fluid maintenance(probably 200 2x rear end and tranny fluid changes and motor oil with redline and mobile 1).

I ran my Z06 for a full season last year and had $0 costs beyond regular maintenance and tires.  Eventually it will need new bushings for the control arms due to the sticky tires, but hasn't needed them yet.

I did have the upper coolant radiator hose pop off at an event, but that seems to have been a fluke caused by improper factory installation.  Just re-attached and haven't had a problem since.

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Ted

2004 Z16/Z06 SS

Probably ANYTHING you buy will hold up well. Assume that tires will be the biggest ongoing expense. Some high load items might need attention earlier than normal (fluids, brakes, etc.). I've been running since 1981 and beyond car setup, I don't think I had to address any unexpected repairs at all. The cars included a new 81 Accord H/B, 77 D/SP Civic, new 93 Probe GT, 1980 B/SP TR8, and now a 2007 Sky Redline. So, pick a car, prpe it, and go have fun. Don't forget Evo Schools!!!!

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Bob Buxbaum
Lee's Summit, Mo.

As others have said, I've had no additional wear and tear costs beyond routine maint.  Everyone who chimed in here has cars in the higher classes. 

That is not the case for some cars.  Some cars break axles/CV joints, wear out motor mounts, bushings, wheel bearings, second gear synchros, burn lots of oil, have suspension mounting points break, cone hits can leave marks and/or break fiberglass body panels, etc.  It all depends on what car you are autocrossing, what you've done to it, and how good of shape it is in when you start. 

If you can give us an idea of the car, we might be able to point out what could go wrong and problem points to look out for. 
 

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Rob Leone

'07 Solstice GXP in AS
'87 Toyota Corolla in EP
ex - '91 MR2 Turbo in SM2 <- If you can't set a good example, serve as a horrible warning.

My short list of cars includes:   Used C5 Z06, new 135i, new GXP/Redline, new C6 Z51.  The 135i is the top of my list and most likely to edge everything else out --- all things considered.  With the weak dollar, and BMW in general -- I would imagine the parts are quite a bit more expensive than our beloved GM products. 

 

Whatever the car, get a bunch of replacement fasteners for fender liner and undertray components.  Replace as they mysteriously dissapear.  $20 worth should last a couple years and is a lot cheaper than replacing the panels later.

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clyde
#198 AS Boxster S - in need of SpinGuard
TeamWTF?!

clyde:

Whatever the car, get a bunch of replacement fasteners for fender liner and undertray components.  Replace as they mysteriously dissapear.  $20 worth should last a couple years and is a lot cheaper than replacing the panels later.

Whew -------- tru dat!!! And keep some 'Bug and Tar Remover' handy to get those pesky pylon marks off of the car.

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Bob Buxbaum
Lee's Summit, Mo.

A fragged motor mount and one blown Bilstein HD shock were the only major failures we've had over the past year.  But... it is a Porsche. 

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John Vitamvas
stranoparts.com / TeamWTF.org '04 Z06

I seem to recall lots of Neon owners breaking motor mounts while autocrossing, so damage can happen.  Probably best to come up with a specific car and ask your question again to see exactly what problems that car has.  I have autocrossed a lot of old cars over the last 25 years (MGBs, TR6s, Cavalier, MR2, Camaro SS, etc.) and the only repair that I have had to make was when the studs holding the hub to the semi-trailing arm all pulled out on my TR6.  I repaired it with a hand operated electric drill and a helicoil kit.  I've autocrossed my current car, an '82 Camaro Z28 in CP for two years plus running it on the road racing track (MAM) for 170 miles with no repairs at all - I paid $4,500 for the car so you don't really need to spend big bucks for something reliable.

hzl6cm:

I seem to recall lots of Neon owners breaking motor mounts while autocrossing, so damage can happen.

 I'd bet many "never" autocrossed Neons had broken mounts too but the owners never noticed.
 

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Mark Hirt
2007 MX-5 MS-R
Bowman Race Kart - rented
Webmaster Chicago Region SCCA

Mark Hirt:

hzl6cm:

I seem to recall lots of Neon owners breaking motor mounts while autocrossing, so damage can happen.

 I'd bet many "never" autocrossed Neons had broken mounts too but the owners never noticed.
 

That's the case with the Boxster as well.  At least Porsche has updated the part to a much stronger version. 

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John Vitamvas
stranoparts.com / TeamWTF.org '04 Z06

I would rip the skin off my left knee and bleed slightly as my flesh abraided the speaker grill in my C5Z06

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Trying to get faster

I had the 2nd gear synchro replaced on my '04 RX-8 just recently, but this car has seen National competition since its original owner bought it in October of '04, and it sees plenty of abuse. Other than that, I've had to replace one splash shield that got mangled in a wheel well. Oh, and I replaced the leaking front Koni shocks, but that seems to be a very common problem on RX-8s. 

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Iain

2004 Mazda RX-8 - former B Stock autocrosser, now daily driver and HPDE car
2005 Honda CR-V EX AWD - alphabet soup family truckster

I just did my clutch on my CS Solstice at 10K miles.

2.0 60' times(slipping the clutch most of the way through 1st gear) will wear them out. Stay away from Pro's and you will have less car breakage imo.

Other than mods for stock class, it has been pretty trouble free so far.

Other cars have had similar issues with clutches and motor mounts go and so do suspension bushings eventually.

FM

Well sounds like the general concensus is not too bad.  Does anyone have any experience specifically with BMW's?  Past or present...  Or hell even if you just know someone that does....answer by proxy ya'know?

I ran an E36 M3 in stock for a couple years.  Other than the usual BMW maintenance (cooling system) it was bulletproof.

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John Vitamvas
stranoparts.com / TeamWTF.org '04 Z06

I would recommend buying the extended warranty if you buy something used.  I know of someone who bought a used 2004 M3 and autocrossed it.  It was a well prepped car, but once while on the rev limiter in 2nd the engine froze up.  Luckily the extended warranty covered the $6000 repair. 

Personally, I've never had anything (except tires and brake pads...maybe the clutch) wear abnormally due to autocross.  I've raced a 1999 Miata for 7 years, a Mini Cooper S for 1 season and now co-driving a MX-5 MS-R.  

I think a key point is that if you can afford it, start with a late model car.  Locally we've had people show up with cars from the 1980's and 200,000+ miles.  They autocross the car once and then are surprised when something goes wrong.  Autocross has a way of bringing any problems to light more quickly.  But stick with reliable late model vehicles and you'll be relatively trouble free autocrossing it.  Sounds like you'll be fine with your choices.

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2007 Mazda MX-5 MRS (C-stock)

Ran a 1991 Miata in STS2 for two years, but the repairs I made to it would have been done in Stock class also. The car was bought in 2005 with 88k on the clock and it ran and drove very well.

Things that HAD to be repaired or replaced over the two years:  tie rod ends, motor mounts, rotors (twice), calipers (once), brake lines (one was swollen) and a new motor (old one didn't pass the leakdown test after a year - it was cheaper to buy a new one from Mazda than rebuild correctly).

Things that I replaced to make the car faster, fresher and more reliable that would apply to stock class: front wheel bearings, rear hub bearings, half the water hoses, PCV valve, throttle cable, diff mounts, shock top mounts (that have a huge chunk of rubber that affects the suspension) and suspension arm bushings. I SHOULD have done a clutch, but the stocker held out and was still going strong when I sold it. It just worried me.

I also had to purchase a center dash panel, speaker panels, plastic interior panel fastners, misc exterior trim, a windshield, a new convertible top, and an engine undertray. All that was just to restore the car back to stock condition.

Over the course of two years competition though, TIRE cost easily eclipsed any other expense. I did some tire testing when the Falkens changed and again when the Bridgestones came out and wasn't shy about swapping out 1/2 used up tires for fresh rubber, but the overall tire budget was higher than anything else even including the cost of the new engine.

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Aut tace aut loquere meliora silentio.

John V:

A fragged motor mount and one blown Bilstein HD shock were the only major failures we've had over the past year.  But... it is a Porsche. 

So that bill ran just south of 3 grand right ;)

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-2006 Lotus Elise- SS
-2000 Honda S2000- AS
-2009 Mini Cooper S- GS