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Can I use any type of fuel cell in FP? Or do I have to use a Fuel Safe cell?

Im only planning on Autoxing the car.

 

Thanks 

I think a fuel cell from any source is fine.. BUT read the rule book.

I dont think you would need a massive, heavy 18 gallon road race cell.I was thinking a 3 gallon dry sump oil tank in the wheel well of the car (atleast for me). Should be enough for autocrossing, lightweight, easy access etc..

You will need the cell to be physically seperated by a sheet of metal (stock or additional) from the driver cabin. (Some cars have direct access to the boot when stripped off all the interiors.- would need a sheet of metal to cover the access)

By the way - which car?

I run a BMW 328 w/ a stock motor in FP. (basically a good DSP car minus the weight) 

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Vinax
1994 BMW 325i FP AutoX car.
http://www.myfastbmw.com

I have an old datsun z. I have the rules off of the internet no book yet. In there under fuel system I dont see any mention of tanks. Ill have to re read. I was thinking of a 5 or 10gallon but I want a sending unit which they dont have in these sizes. The 3 gallon dry sump oil tank sounds good too.

 

Thanks 

LOTS of options for fuel cells in the 3-5 gallon range, as that's a pretty common size for the drag racers.  Fuel Safe and ATL are the cells you'll typically see in road race cars.  However, if you're on a budget, folks like Jegs & Summit carry some pretty reasonable options.  No reason to carve up a dry-sump tank, as there are plenty of alternatives designed for the job.  A lot of the smaller tanks are odd sizes, so a simple rectangular 5 or 10 gallon cell might be easiest, if you want a gauge sender.

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Steve Garnjobst
#75 XP
'99 Mazda Mutant

I have a off-brand 5 gal. fuel cell, and am trying to figure out the best way to mount the tank for easy fill access. (prepared class) I would prefer a filler neck that protrudes through the trunk floor, but it seems that with a hatchback, the filler neck and cap must be separated from the passenger compartment. At least that's the way I read the rules. That leaves me with building a door to access the flush mount cap underneath.

I'd like to see what others are doing, or what SCCA will approve. Can I use a piano hinge for the access cover? Camloc/Dzus fasteners are best? Anyone have photos of something good?

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CENLA Member

I was planning to use something like you describe at one point.  I went a totally different direction, but this would likely fit the bill for you.

-Steve

  
http://www.kenlowe.com.au/body_hardware.htm

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Steve Garnjobst
#75 XP
'99 Mazda Mutant

Here's what I did for my hatchback Civic.  It's a Summit 4gal tank, mounted on a frame below the trunk floor.  One of the key rules to keep in mind is the 'tank must be 6" off the ground' rule.  In my case, the tank had to protrude up into the car quite a bit to meet this rule.  I simply built an aluminum box to cover the tank and opening.  It uses some sliding quick connectors I got from Pegasus.  The cover has a foam seal around it to make it reasonably leak proof.  It's kind of a pain to have ot climb in the car to add gas, but it isn't too bad.

 Here is the tank without the cover:

 

And with the cover:

 

-Chris

snazzy setup chris! :D

I am also impressed.

I, however, am going a different route. I'm combining a couple of rules that say 1) that you can remove/modify the trunk floor, and 2) that you can modify interior body panels for fuel cell placement. I'm at this stage:

I needed to remove the spare tire well for fuel cell placement, now that it's out of the way, an aluminum panel will cover the entire hole. I'll just need an access door to refuel, so the entire panel does not have to be removed. I like the door above, but it's in Austraila. Might be easier to make my own. Any other suggestions? BTW, it looks like crap right now, but mock-up is always that way. Bear with me.

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CENLA Member